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Three Principles of Personal Finance: All You Need to Know for Financial Success

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More than 10,000 books have been written about personal finance. You could spend a lifetime reading them. Some of them are great1; others are 99% motivation, 1% actual, actionable information2.

The truth is personal finance is simple. Every one of these books can be reduced into three basic principles:

  1. Spend less than you earn
  2. Make the money you have work for you
  3. Be prepared for the unexpected

While the principles might sound like common sense, the real trick is to truly understand them, and more importantly, to apply them.

Our Stance:

Mint.com was founded to make personal finance simple, understandable, and ultimately life-enhancing. Money, after all, is a means to an end. It’s a tool for doing more, and having more time. It’s not just about increasing your net worth or saving for retirement. As we say at Mint, money is for living.

Spend Less Than You Earn

Put another way, “spend less than you earn” means: live within your means, don’t overspend, don’t get yourself into debt and start saving. Easy to say, not so easy to do — especially given the appeal of a new car, a sweet home theater, a couple nights each week out with friends, and a posh tropical vacation every once in a while. You have a job for a reason — you want the good things life has to offer.

You could forgo dining out for cooking at home, always buy generic, get your clothes on sale at the end of the season, and save a few dollars whenever possible. But really there are four big decisions that affect your expenses (and therefore your ability to save for other things) more than anything else.

These are the areas where you need to go in understanding the costs involved, so that you come out remaining financially strong.

1. Buying a House

A house is likely the most expensive purchase you’ll ever make. And it’s not just the mortgage, its property taxes, home owner’s insurance, maintenance, and the time it takes to mow the lawn. Too many people think that buying a home is automatically a good investment, since you’re “not throwing money away on rent.” While owning a home of your own may be the American dream, it doesn’t always make economic sense.

If you live in California, the Northeast, or Southwest where housing prices have doubled or tripled in the last 10 years, it’s almost always better to rent and invest the difference (more on this in principal #2). Even if you live outside those regions, if you move within the next five years (and if you’re in your 20s that’s almost a certainty), the closing costs and 6% realtor fees will eat away your gains.

By contrast, if you plan to stay in the same area indefinitely, a house may be one of the best investments you make. To determine what’s right for you, I like the NY Times Rent vs. Buy Calculator. It’s the best one on the web, and easy to use: just enter your rent and the price to buy a comparable place3.

Rent vs. Buy Calculator

2. Kids (and when to have them)

Children can be an amazing source of joy in your life. If you’re planning to have some, it’s important to realize the expense involved, so you can make the best decision on when to do so.

Kids mean more money spent on a bigger house, a bigger car, food, clothes, healthcare, and education. The cost of raising a child calculator at BabyCenter does a good job of breaking things down by region and household income level. In today’s dollars, most estimates approach $200,000 per child (excluding college). That’s about $11,000 per year per child.

This cost can be lessened dramatically by waiting a few years. If you wait to have kids for 4 years, and instead invest that $11,000 per year at a 10% return, you would have $67,000 by time your child is born. As you begin to take $11,000 per year out for child-related expenses, part of your original investment continues to grow. In the 18 years spent raising your child, you will expend only $100,000 out of pocket. It’s like having a child at half the cost.

3. Where you live

You probably choose where to live based on job opportunities, proximity to family and friends, or a great climate. But where you live has a big impact on how much you can save. For example, if you make $75,000 a year in Austin, you would need to make $135,000 in San Francisco to maintain your lifestyle. That’s an 80% increase in cost of living. Unfortunately, moving from Austin to San Francisco, salaries typically increase by only 30%.

To compare major cities, I like BankRate’s cost of moving calculator. It shows the difference in housing costs, doctor’s appointments, and even the cost of a haircut.

4. Car (new or used)

Automobile manufacturers and dealers spent more than $16.3 billion in 2006 to convince you to buy a new car4. Seriously, that’s billion with a “b”. Let’s say you cave and decide to get a 2007 Chevy Malibu because it will “only” cost $20,000. Three years later, the car has depreciated by $10,500 and you’ve paid more than $3,500 in finance charges - a total expense of $14,000. If you bought a used 2004 Malibu instead, depreciation and finance charges add to only $3,800. That’s a $10,000 difference. You can see the calculation yourself at Edmunds.

Maybe you want something better than a Malibu. Buy a 2004 BMW 545i for $37,000 instead of the 2008 550i for $64,000. It will cost $27,000 less to buy used, and you’ll save $15,000 in depreciation and finance charges over the next 3 years. Always buy used, even if only last year’s model (I myself own a ‘94 and a ‘96). Impressing the neighbors (or the ladies) with an ever so slightly better model probably isn’t worth it.

Getting Ahead in Your Savings

Easy Ways to Maximize Your Savings

Beyond the “big four” financial decisions, there a few things everyone can do to maximize savings. And they can all be done without radically altering your lifestyle.

Get a credit card that pays you:

Always use a credit card - instead of a debit card, checks or cash - if you pay off your balance in full each month. A credit card gives you a 30-day interest free loan, more rewards, and in conjunction with a tool like Mint, better visibility into exactly where your money goes.

Turn the tables on your credit card company and make them pay you with a rewards card. Whether you opt for points, miles, or cash back is up to you, but don’t settle for anything less than 1% back (or 1 mile per dollar). Usually, you can do much better. Blue Cash® from American Express offers 5% cash back on purchases made at supermarkets, gas stations, and drugstores, and 1% on all other purchases. Citi® Dividend Platinum Select® Card earns you 5% cash back at gas stations, supermarkets, drug stores, convenience stores, and utilities including cable for 6 months and 2% thereafter. Earn 1% cash back on all other purchases.

The catch is that most cards offering 3-5% cash back have a cap on rewards. Keeping track of all the restrictions, and calculating whether it’s better to get cash back on restaurants or utilities is difficult. Fortunately, Mint does all that work for you. Based on your unique spending categories, Mint finds the card that maximizes your rewards.

If you carry a balance on your credit card, maximizing your rewards is secondary. Paying down your debt comes first. A $5,000 credit card bill paid off at a $100 minimum monthly payment takes 9 years to pay off. In that time, you will have spent $5,100 in interest charges alone! You can do the calculation yourself at Yahoo Finance.

If you switch to a 0% introductory rate card (and keep switching when the introductory rate expires), that $100 a month payment means you’ll be debt free in less than half the time. Both the Discover More and Open Road cards charge no interest on balance transfers for the first 12 months and they offer rewards.

Upgrade your bank account:

This year, US banks are expected to charge consumers over $55 billion in fees5. To add insult to injury, the average savings account pays you only 0.50% interest (and most checking accounts earn no interest at all).

Banks work by accumulating deposits, then loaning that money out as a mortgage or to a business. Those loans are paid back at an interest rate that is typically around 5.00% ~ 8.00%. If the average bank pays you only 0.50%, they’re taking that difference as profit — profits that could go to you. Get a savings account from WaMu or CapitalOne Direct that pays 3.00%+.

Better rates, better savings. Why settle for 0% from your checking or 0.50% from your savings? When compared to an account at 0.50%, a savings of $20,000 in a 5.00% account can earn you an extra $1,000 per year!

Upgrade your bank. Here is a high-yield accounts for your checking and savings.

WaMu Free Checking and Savings
3.30% APY Savings at WaMu.
Sign Up

Get a lower price on your bills:

No one likes to overpay, but most of us do. Are you sure you’ve got the best price for your internet, TV, or mobile phone service? Probably not. New plans, equipment, and promotional rates come out every day.

Instead of searching for the best prices and latest deals, Mint brings them to you automatically. From your transaction history, Mint knows which services you’re using and how much you’re (over) paying. Mint then finds a lower price for the things you buy most.

Frequently, the biggest savings come from bundling multiple services together. By switching to Comcast or AT&T triple-play you can get phone, TV and internet all for about $115 a month (including taxes and fees). That can save an average household $300-$800 each year.

A dollar saved is many dollars earned:

Lower prices on everyday bills, a credit card that pays you, and a bank account that earns maximum interest add up. On Mint, we’ve found that the average household can save nearly $1,800 each year. If you start when you’re 30, investing that savings at a 10% return means $569,000 by age 65. And that leads us to our next topic: the power of compound interest.

Takeaways:

—————————–
Notes & References:

  1. My favorite personal finance books are:
  2. Rich Dad, Poor Dad is particularly guilty here. In my opinion, while popular, it is largely fluff with only one specific, actionable suggestion: buy real estate as an investment and rent it out.
  3. Under the “General” settings for the Rent vs. Buy Calculator, you should try these settings: increase your investment return from 5% to 10%, and income tax rate from 20% to 35%.
  4. Source: TNS Media Intelligence.
  5. Robert Hammer of investment banking firm R.K. Hammer, cited in MSN Money.

Make the Money You Have Work for You

Make The Money You Have Work For You

If you saved $10,000 a year for the next 40 years and earned no interest, you would have $400,000. If you invested $10,000 a year and earned a 10% return each year, you would have $5,267,155. Why the difference? Because your interest earns interest, and its interest earns interest, and so on. The result is exponential growth. Remember calculus? This time it actually works for you.

To obtain real wealth, you need to redeploy your money. And that means investment. It’s how capitalism works. You can put your money into stocks where you own a part of a corporation; bonds where you loan your money out and earn interest in return; real estate; or start your own business.

Managing real estate can be a full time job, and owning your own business certainly is. Since both of these may require radical changes in life style, we’ll ignore them to focus on investments open to everyone: stocks and bonds.

Stocks vs. Bonds:

Over the last 200 years, stocks have consistently and reliably outperformed bonds. Not counting inflation, stocks have averaged 10% a year; and 14% for the past 20 years. Accounting for inflation, stocks have provided a “real” return of 7% annually, doubling their value every 7 years. By contrast, bonds have produced an average real return of 4.5%, doubling only every 16 years1.

For money you need in the next four years, stocks may not be the right choice. In the short term, the market may swing widely up or down. You can lose money. In the long term, however, a portfolio weighted heavily in stocks has consistently outperformed one weighted towards bonds or other fixed-income investments (such as CDs or money market funds).

Individual stocks are risky. Any one company might go out of business, suffer an accounting scandal, or miss their quarterly earnings. To distribute your risk (or in investment terms “diversify your portfolio”), buy a mutual fund. But be aware of the big differences between those that are “actively managed” vs. “indexed”.

Some mutual funds are actively managed by professionals. This active trading comes with a cost: management fees, administrative fees, and transaction costs can eat up to 2% of your investment each year. Active trading also means more taxes in the form of short term capital gains. Are they worth the cost? Often, they’re not: 80% of mutual funds under-perform the S&P 500 index. You should also be aware that choosing the right mutual fund is nearly as hard as choosing the right stock.

By contrast, index funds are “passive” - these funds invest in specific set of stocks designed to simply mirror the market instead of trying to out-guess it. The result: fees at index funds like the Vanguard S&P 500 are less than 0.20% annually.

Pay Yourself First:

You pay the government. You pay your rent (or mortgage). You pay your bills. How about paying your (future) self for change? They key is to do it automatically, every paycheck, before you get a chance to spend or even see the money.

If your company has a 401k plan, start contributing. This money comes out of gross-pay and is not taxed. Even better, companies often “match” employee contributions. You put in $1, they put in $1; it’s like doubling your money immediately. Even if you company matches only $0.50 to the dollar, that’s still an instant 50% return.

If your company does not have a 401k (or you’ve maxed it out), you can setup “automatic” investments with E*Trade, Fidelity, Vanguard, and most major brokerages. Each month, they’ll take $1,000 from your checking account, and put it towards the investment (hopefully an index fund!) of your choosing.

The Magic of Compound Interest:

The end result of automatic monthly investments: wealth that grows year after year.

Monthly Investment

Age

Total Invested
to age 65

7%

10%

13%

$100

20

$54,000

$379,259

$1,048,250

$3,096,741

 

25

$48,000

$262,481

$632,408

$1,617,907

 

30

$42,000

$180,105

$379,664

$843,184

 

35

$36,000

$121,997

$226,049

$437,327

 

40

$30,000

$81,007

$132,683

$224,709

           

$200

20

$108,000

$758,519

$2,096,500

$6,193,482

 

25

$96,000

$524,963

$1,264,816

$3,235,813

 

30

$84,000

$360,211

$759,328

$1,686,368

 

35

$72,000

$243,994

$452,098

$874,654

 

40

$60,000

$162,014

$265,367

$449,418

           

$500

20

$270,000

$1,896,297

$5,241,251

$15,483,705

 

25

$240,000

$1,312,407

$3,162,040

$8,089,533

 

30

$210,000

$900,527

$1,898,319

$4,215,920

 

35

$180,000

$609,985

$1,130,244

$2,186,635

 

40

$150,000

$405,036

$663,417

$1,123,546

           

$1,000

20

$540,000

$3,792,595

$10,482,502

$30,967,409

 

25

$480,000

$2,624,813

$6,324,080

$16,179,066

 

30

$420,000

$1,801,055

$3,796,638

$8,431,839

 

35

$360,000

$1,219,971

$2,260,488

$4,373,270

 

40

$300,000

$810,072

$1,326,833

$2,247,092

You can run the numbers yourself by clicking here.Think you’ll be a millionaire? Be wary of taxes. Instead of a 10% return, taxes knock it back to 7%. If you’re 30, that means your $500 a month investment drops from $1,898,319 to $900,527. But there is a way to avoid taxes; it’s called an IRA (Individual Retirement Account).

Like a 401k, an IRA allows your money to grow tax-free until you take it out for retirement. Unfortunately, if you need to money before retirement, you’ll be hit with penalties and be forced to pay the extra taxes. A better alternative, especially if you’re young, may be a Roth IRA. Contributions to a Roth IRA are made from after-tax income. As a result, you can withdraw your original contributions at any time, penalty and tax-free.

By “avoiding taxes” and investing small amounts every month, anyone can achieve financial security.

Takeaways:

  • Weigh your long term portfolio heavily towards stocks.
  • For money needed in less than four years, keep it in a high-yield savings account, money market fund, or CD.
  • Invest $100-$1,000 a month automatically into index funds or the closest alternative offered by your company’s 401k plan.

——————
Notes:

  1. See “Stocks for the Long Run” by Jeremy Siegel, Chapter 1.

Prepare for the Unexpected

The best laid financial plan can be quickly ruined by a streak of misfortune: job loss, fire, theft, or health problems. You need to protect yourself, but it’s not nearly as hard as you think.

Emergency Fund:

Without savings, living paycheck-to-paycheck leaves you vulnerable. You need a buffer, a way to get back on your feet if disaster strikes. Save enough for at least three months’ expenses. For most people, that should be $10,000-20,000. This is savings separate and distinct from your vacation fund and your investments. It’s your “open in case of emergencies only” fund.

Build your emergency fund. Earn rates 7 times higher than that of the national average. Just pay careful attention to the minimum balance require to avoid fees; amount required to open account; and amount required to maintain yield.

Accelerate your emergency fund. Here are two accounts that offer competitive rates.

Capital One MMA
No fees, FDIC insured and a great rate!
Sign Up
HSBC Online Savings
No fees & no minimum deposit.
Sign Up

Insurance:

Yes, if you’re an adult, you need insurance. And no, not just car insurance. What you need depends on where you are in life.

Medical bills are cited in about half of all bankruptcies1. And it’s no wonder. Break your leg rock-climbing and you could be stuck with a $5,000+ bill. If your company doesn’t provide it, you need health insurance.

If you’re in your twenties or early thirties, choose an inexpensive plan with a high deductible. You want something to protect you from disaster, but without breaking the bank. In most states, you can find a plan with a $2-3,000 deductible for $50-100 per month. You may not have the prescription drug benefits, or the low co-pay of those $300 per month plans, but if you only go to the doctor once or twice a year, you’ll come out way ahead.

If you rent, you need renter’s insurance. Sadly, only about 33% of renters actually buy this coverage2. Renter’s insurance protects you against fire, theft, and most natural disasters. Step back and think about how much it would cost to replace your computer, TV, couch, bed, and everything else you own. With renter’s insurance, you can get $20k in coverage for only $10-15 a month. It’s dirt cheap and worth it.

Renter’s insurance also protects you outside your apartment. If your car window is smashed and someone grabs your laptop, your car insurance will only cover the window, not the laptop. A good $20,000 renter’s insurance policy would give you up to $2,000 to replace your loss. Keep in mind that roommates’ possessions are not covered; your roommate needs a policy of his or her own.

Takeaways:

  • Save $10-20k in an emergency fund. Keep that fund in a high-yield savings account like CapitalOne Bank or HSBC.
  • If you need health insurance, consider a $50-$100 a month high-deductible plan. Being without health insurance leaves you too vulnerable to bankruptcy or worse.
  • If you rent, get rent’s insurance. It’s only $120-$160 per year.

——————
References:

  1. “Illness and Injury as Contributors to Bankruptcy”
  2. “Millions of Renters Lack Insurance

Financial Success in Three Steps:

We’ve now reduced personal finance to three simple principles, and no more than a dozen action items. But where do you start right now?

1. Use Mint…and see where your money goes

The first step to financial success is to know where you stand. You need a complete picture of how much you have, how much you owe, and where it’s all going. With Mint, you get all of that - for free, and with less than five minutes of setup.

2. Pay off your credit cards (highest rate first)

We’ve already shown you that a $5,000 credit card bill paid off at $100 a month will take nine years and $5,100 in additional interest charges. If you’re paying 20% interest on credit card debt, action item number one is to pay it off before you do anything else. There’s no point investing your money at a 10-15% gain, when it could be used to avoid a 20% loss.


3. Setup automatic investments

The key to wealth is compound interest. Invest just $200 every month when you’re 25 and at a 10% return, you’ll have $1.2m by 65. You’ll also have savings in case of emergency, money for your children’s college, and the ability to borrow from your investments for a down-payment on a house.

Not sure you can find $200 a month? Mint shows the average user over $1,800 in annual savings - that’s $150 a month right there. You’ll be well on your way.

Liked this article? Help others find it.


 

36 Responses to “Three Principles of Personal Finance: All You Need to Know for Financial Success”

Aaron Patzer Says:

Speaking of navigating the 10,000+ books written on personal finance, what are your favorites?

Moneymonk Says:

I commented earlier it did not go through

Aaron Patzer Says:

Moneymonk -
Sorry…we had an issue with our comment system earlier today (it was turned off for about 6 hours). Any chance you want to comment again? We always like your perspective on things :-)

Melinda Says:

Best article written so far.
Basic money principles like a basic budget will save the average Joe Blow, $1,000’s upon $1,000’s every year.
These principles need to be part of the key learning core units in primary & secondary schools worldwide!

Aaron Patzer Says:

For investing books, I highly recommend:

1. “The Richest Man in Babylon” as a great starting place on the power of compound interest.

2. “The Only Investment Guide You’ll Ever Need” as a short, but comprehensive guide to investment vehicles, retirement accounts, insurance, and ways to save on everyday costs.

3. “Stocks for the Long Run” as the most well-researched, easy-to-read book on an equity (stocks) heavy portfolio.

Ben Korp Says:

Good article. One point I’d make is that you have to take inflation into account when thinking about your future investments. Especially investments more than 10 years out.

Recently, inflation has been running about 2 - 3.0% per year. Inflation eats away at your total — $1 million dollars in 25 years will be worth much less than $1 million dollars today. Thus those huge totals that appear in the final column of the charts are not quite as large as they appear in terms of purchasing power.

The easiest way to do this when working with compounded interest is to just subtract out inflation from the return rate. Thus, to estimate how much money you will have in today’s dollars in 30 years at a 10% return rate with 3% inflation, you can calculate your total using a 7% rate (10% - 3%).

David Mackey Says:

A great article. Thanks for the detailed writeup. I’m really looking forward to Mint correcting its bugs and me being able to utilize it fully.

David Mackey Says:

I’m not a big fan of stocks, but mainly b/c people don’t embrace a long-term vision when buying/selling them which results in a lot of unnecessary market volatility.

David Mackey Says:

What about life insurance? Where does that figure in?

Ramin Surya Says:

Rich dad Poor Dad, Millionaire Next Door, One of Suze Orman’s books, Random walk down the street. Spend less than you earn, but also important save more than you spend. Easy to say hard to practice. Mint is truly refreshing. Thank you!

Ragnar Says:

Completely agree about Rich Dad, Poor Dad. He is really more of a motivational speaker/writer than anything else.

I like a lot of Ric Edelmans books, though I may not always agree. His writing style is entertaining and easy to understand.

I have to admit I am quite pleased by everything I have seen here so far, except perhaps not being able to manually add cash transactions.

BB Says:

The thing that always bugs me about the “always buy a used car” mantra is that it does not take into account the current reality of vehicle financing. It is easy to find 0% financing on a new vehicle. For a used vehicle, rates are more like 7-10%. This needs to be part of the calculation on which is the better buy. Sure, you will lose on depreciation on a new vehicle, but that may be offset by the interest you would pay on a used vehicle, depending on purchase prices, models etc. So, unless you are buying that used vehicle with cash, be skeptical about this rule of thumb in the current car market.

Dax Dunn Says:

All this stuff is great provided you have your own personal idea of value, today being able to identify and create value is a major obsticle in creating wealth.

Poor people make poor choices. Rather than looking at the money that the wealthy have, look at the chices that they make to create wealth.

Shauna Miller Says:

Very interesting site. I heard about it from my son at college and he was impressed with what he saw. Me too. I hope he learns from your suggestions in the article.

My most favorite quote when it comes to making money is,

“Work for the king and live like the masses or work for the masses and live like a king.” I wish I knew who said it.
Thanks

Thanks

Olena Says:

Really, by far the best article on personal finance I’ve ever read! Great job, Aaron!
Coming from Europe, the only thing I wish is that it were more global, as opposed to listing a lot of U.S.-specific instruments like 401k etc…
Maybe a follow-up? I also wish Mint came to Europe!

Aaron Patzer Says:

Olena,

I’m not all that acquainted to the retirement vehicles in Europe. The basic principles of compound interest and investment still apply, however.

While the US stock market has very consistently returned 7-10% annual growth over the past 200 years, my studies of European rates of return have been complicated by hyper-inflation, world wars, and changing borders. If you happen to have a good resource, I’d love to hear about it.

As far as bringing Mint.com to Europe, we’re working on it. Timely will likely not be until the later half of 2008, with the UK coming on board first.

Aaron

moneysaving Says:

Shauna Miller, this is a wonderful quote!

Millie Says:

It’s too bad I am in major debt right now and can’t apply the investing principles yet, but I’m working on it. This stuff should really be taught to kids coming out of high school or the first course you take in college. It’s funny my first day of college was the day I applied for a credit card so I could get a free t-shirt. Today, that t-shirt is long gone and has come at a high price to pay for the money habits I am trying to fix now. On another note, I’d like to recommend the articles on Fool.com for debt and investing strategies. They’ve really helped me out. Thanks for this refreshing article Mint.

brad Says:

Check out “Financial Peace Revisited” by Dave Ramsey. He’s anti-anti-debt (even to the point of housing), but if you can live by a lot of his principles and adopt his “Baby Steps” you can accomplish a lot.

mbongwe Says:

Excellent article indeed. Investing $200 every month can be hard for some people (especially living in poor countries), but 10% yearly is rather conservative estimate. If you can achieve 20% (not that hard with well selected portfolio), all you need is $100 monthly contribution and you’ll get that 1.2 mil. at 53.

Dale Says:

The Richest Man in Babylon is an excellent book!

Simon Says:

Excellent article, thank you.

While the “magic” underlying the principle of compound interest is undisputed, the degree of benefit obviously depends on the rate you’re getting.

You site a couple hypotheticals where the investor receives a compounding rate of 10% a year. This seems a little too good to be true given that most savings vehicles are risk adverse, no? Can you give us a couple of examples where we might be able to obtain such a yield?

Thanks!!

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Josh Says:

This site is an excellent resource. You do a great job of distilling all of the personal finance information on the market today down to a few easy points.

I have the same question as Simon above. I currently invest my money in a Citi MMA but I’ve finally amassed an emergency fund and I’m ready to look at higher yield investment options. What type of relatively low risk, easy to manage investment options exist for the passive investor who is looking for higher returns?

Thanks

Bob Hall Says:

As per buying a car new/used. Try NOT buying a car at all. If you can, live near your work so it’s easy to bike/bus there. I gave up my car and save tons of money on gas & insurance every year.

When you need to go out of town, rent a car. I use my credit card that pays for the extra insurance (goes from about $60 per day to $30).

Saver Says:

Re Bank Accounts I think it’s important to note that the rates could change since the time you made this post.

I keep tabs on the interest rates at:
* ING Direct,
* Fidelity (where the CA AMT free fund gets the highest return currently),
* Citibank where they have the most reasonable fees I’ve found and is good for ATM/Debit card purposes.
* PayPal, where if you verify your account you can get a really good return. Many people don’t know this about PayPal. However they charge and limit you when you want to transfer money out.

Depending on how much cash you’ve saved, .5% interest can add up so don’t be complacent about where you’ve saving. I don’t like to be locked into a CD for just this reason.

It’s easy and free to transfer money online between accounts at various institutions, usually.

Tyler Says:

In the previous comment PayPal is suggested as a possible alternative to a Money Market Account.

I think it’s important to note that PayPal is not a Money Market Savings account like the others listed in this article. It is basically a money market mutual fund which has fees around 1%. Accordingly, it is possible for your PayPal account to lose principle. For an accurate comparison you should take that 4.5% yield from PayPal and subtract the 1% in fees, then take that 3.5% and compare it to the ING Direct account with 4% yield and no fees (and no risk of loss of principle, and FDIC insurance). Once I realized this I pulled all of my spare money from PayPal and put it in my direct bank account as the article suggests.

Personally, I have been using GMACbank.com which has given me consistently higher returns than ING Direct (or any other bank I’ve checked). However, it requires a $500 dollar minimum which is unlike many of the other direct banks.

Wendy Says:

Tyler,

gmacbank.com only requires $500 to get a 4.25 yield. You can still get a healthy 4.15 for $0 to $499.99 balance.

Mint « Jason Michael Smithson Says:

[...] for personal finance since Fool’s School. I’ve added mint.edu to my reader based on Three Principles of Personal Finance: All You Need to Know for Financial Success. While obviously well biased towards Mint the article breaks it down into 3 basic principles and 4 [...]

Bill Says:

For Simon and Josh: Annualized returns in the 10%-11.5% range are not difficult to achieve, but you will not find that return with anything that comes with a so-called “guarantee”. MMA’s are great for emergency funds that need to remain liquid and not fluctuate, but long term investments are completely different. There are literally 1000’s of mutual funds that have generated these returns over decades. When you purchase a growth type fund that is managed by a major company (Janus, Fidelity, TRowe Price, etc) you are placing your funds into the hands of a dedicated team of the best in the field who’s sole purpose is to manage those funds. That does not mean that every year they do this, some years are more and some less, but the average is 11% over all.

Is there risk? Yes. But if you look at the market as a whole, the average rate of return is ~11%, even including periods of the great depression and recession periods since then. There is a greater risk of losing position from inflation than from losing out over the long term with a diversified stock portfolio of mutual funds.

Cheers!

Eduardo Gomila Says:

How about the older person planing for retirment.

thehungrydollar.com Says:

I use ING DIRECT and absolutely love it. The interface is extremely user-friendly and their customer service is second to none. You might be able to beat their interest rates by shopping around, but I’ve found them to be the most consistent of all the online banks. They also offer online checking accounts and CDs.

Gary Gile Says:

It was most interesting reading the comments.

In regard to the article, very good. I might suggest, however, that you consider this alternative when it comes to paying off your credit card debt and other loans:

Take your extra savings and add that to the minimum payment amount of your LOWEST BALANCE credit card and not your highest interest card. Make the minimum payment on the rest of your debt obligations.

When the lowest balance card is paid off, apply its payment plus the minimum payment amount to your next LOWEST BALANCE card until it is paid off.

Keep doing this by rolling the amount of each successive paid off card or loan to the next LOWEST BALANCE card or loan until all are paid off.

Finally attack your mortgage with this growing payment until your mortgage is paid off. Once all debts are cleared then apply the new savings amount to your investments.

This process will take less time and save you more in the long run than paying off the highest interest cards first.

In regard to what type of investments to be involved in: My number one best and most productive ROI is investing in ME through education and starting my own businesses.

Mike Dutch Says:

Regarding Gary Gile’s comment “This process will take less time and save you more in the long run than paying off the highest interest cards first.”

In the aggregate, you have some amount of debt, regardless of which account it is in. It makes more sense to pay off the debt with the highest interest… paying off the debt with the lowest balance first makes absolutely no sense. I do agree with Gary that education is the best investment.

From a financial point of view, whether you should pay off a mortgage early depends on your mortgage type and rate, the inflation rate, the tax benefits related to your mortgage, and your investment opportunities. For example, I have a fixed rate mortgage < 5%. With inflation about 3.5% the mortgage money costs me 1.5% in real terms or about 1% after taxes. I make more money in a money market fund than I would by paying my mortgage off early. Admittedly, there are “feel good” factors that come into play by not have a mortgage, but it is not a good financial decision to pay it off early.

"Mo" Money Says:

What a great article for anyone interested in getting ahead of the money game. Keep up the good work and glad to see you are connected with the Motley Fool. I’ve been a fan of theirs for many years.

Credit Crunch Says:

I have been doign loads of research on the recent economic problems and the credit crunch in particular, floating around the blogosphere reading as many blogs as possible. I am almost at the conclusion that the current poor economic climate is been driven by the mainstream media ….. any thoughts on this ?

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